The story
A Hmong 'backward market' (cho lui) in Pho Cao commune on National Highway 4C. It meets on a 6-day cycle, so each week it falls one day earlier than the week before. Villagers from Van Chai, Lung Thau, Sung La and nearby come to trade ethnic clothing, handwoven textiles, forest herbs and crafts, get repairs done, eat and catch up with friends. Food stalls sell five-colour sticky rice dyed with forest plants, pork pho, thang co, men men, banh day, banh duc and corn liquor.
Known as a "cho lui" (backward market), it meets by zodiac day rather than a fixed weekday. Goods serve people from the surrounding area and it is less shaped by tours.
What to order
Five-colour sticky rice
Coloured with liquid from forest leaves and roots
5,000₫Pork pho
Served at the market's food stalls
Thang co
Highland stew
Men men
Steamed ground corn
Banh day and banh duc
Traditional rice cakes
Local tips
Bring small cash. Many traditional vendors don't take electronic payment.
Ask the price before you order.
Arrive early for the fullest market. It's mostly over by early afternoon.
Because the market day rotates, confirm the date locally before you plan around it.
Say it in Vietnamese
“Cho em một phần giống mọi người hay gọi, ít cay nhé.”
One portion of what everyone usually orders, not too spicy, please.Plan your visit
Opening hours
Mornings; date follows the zodiac-day cycle
When to go
Arrive early morning. The market runs from about 3 AM to 1 PM. Check the day locally, because it shifts one day earlier each week.
Meets by zodiac (con giap) day rather than a fixed weekday, so the date shifts each cycle
Getting there
Pho Cao is on National Highway 4C (Happiness Road) in Dong Van, so it's an easy stop on the loop.
Open in Google Maps →Good to know
Works well with kids
- Ask before photographing people, and don't pose or rearrange them for photos.
- Keep your voice down and don't litter.
Where this comes from
History and details come from named press or official sources. Hours and prices can change — travelers help keep them current.
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